Rabat, the capital of Morocco since the establishment of the French protectorate in 1912 and continuing through Independence in 1961, has a more relaxed and laid-back pace than most Moroccan cities.

It is, in fact, a great introduction to Morocco - both past and present.

Its sites are rich and varied, dating from the ancient ruins of Chellah through some magnificent buildings of the twentieth century including the Mausoleum of King Mohamed V. King Mohamed V was the father of His Majesty King Hassan II; it was Mohamed V who brought independence to Morocco and it is Mohamed V who is credited with saving the Jews of Morocco from deportation by the occupying Vichy government during World War II.

Rabat also has a rich collection of museums, although most of them tend to be rather small. The most notable are the museum which houses the artifacts found among the various Roman ruins all over Morocco (including Volubulis) and a unique private museum on the outskirts of Rabat.

If you come to Casablanca in search of Rick’s Café or Bogart, you may be disappointed.

Yet, Casa - as the locals call it - has much to offer as the city most influenced by the French and a showcase for their architecture and urban design. Although it now suffers from overcrowding, traffic and pollution, it is Morocco’s most cosmopolitan city and features some outstanding restaurants.

Yet its most impressive sight is also its most recent: the largest mosque in the world outside of Mecca.

Symbolically located at the westernmost point in the Muslim world, the Mosque Hassan II is dramatically perched over the Atlantic Ocean. Visible from all over the city, its statistics are overwhelming: its minaret is over 60 stories high (and will soon be crowned by a laser pointing in the direction of Mecca). The Basilica of St. Peter’s in Rome can fit inside its hand-crafted marble walls. The mosque holds 20,000 worshipers under a retractable roof and a staggering 100,000 when the courtyard is used for prayer.

Completed only a few years ago by His Majesty Hassan II, the buildings of the forecourt (a religious university and a library) are still under construction. Eventually, a grand avenue will extend from the courtyard to the center of the city.

Its brilliant siting not only makes for dramatic architecture, but reflects the Koranic verse "Allah has his throne on the water"

A few miles away is the island of marabout Sidi Abder Rahman. Holy men (designated by the title "Sidi") are venerated in death in Morocco; their tombs become holy places to which pilgrims flock in search of certain blessings. In the case of this tomb, women who are unable to conceive come here for stays of up to one week. Around his tomb, on this rock outcropping, a series of pilgrims’ quarters have sprung up. Non-Muslims are welcome on this island; women are especially welcome.

For lovers of architecture, Casablanca offers fine work by French architects who built their careers in Morocco. They created an architecture known as "Mooresque" which fused Moroccan design with the latest French styles. The most compelling examples are the public buildings which surround Place Mohamed V.

Equally fascinating is the New Medina - also known as the Habous Quarter - an attempt by French architects to create a 20th century kasbah.

Casablanca also contains some outstanding examples of International Style (high modern) and Art Deco architecture - including beautiful villas in the neighborhood of Moulay Youssef near the American Consulate.

After all, the French thought they were here to stay.